Deep within the terracotta gorges of Karijini National Park a single rope forms a flimsy barrier across a narrow gap. A sign warns of a restricted area. The general public are advised not to enter these hidden reaches but Gemma Ryan and her mum Karren, dressed in wetsuits and helmets and swinging carabiners, duck beneath the rope and disappear over a waterfall. For these Karratha locals a visit to Karijini is a treasured part of living in the Pilbara but today, in celebration of Karren’s fiftieth birthday, they have joined West Oz Active Adventures for a guided adrenaline-filled exploration of their own backyard.

Sliding feet-first down the waterfall, hemmed by the banded-iron formations of the Hamersley Range, Gemma splashes into teal water, then turns to watch her mother do the same. It’s the highlight of Karren’s day. From here they abseil over cliffs and paddle across cold pools with only spinifex pigeons and a solitary kite marking their passage; pausing beneath a fire-blackened cajeput to listen to an acknowledgement of country. “This is the best tour I’ve ever been on,” Gemma says. “The guides are interactive, down-to-earth and supportive, and they are funny.” Gemma is yet to meet the rock climb.

“Our job is not to make jokes. It’s not to make sure you have a fun day,” guide Josh Huitson says. “Our main job is to get you safely into and out of the gorges.” With this in mind Gemma and Karren, securely roped, climb another waterfall and round a bend to face a burnished red wall. With Josh grinning they carefully ascend. “That was my highlight,” Gemma says later. “Even though it was scary, it was good to know what the body can do.”

.... Not far from the Karijini Eco Retreat Geoff and Hwee Carter are preparing for another day in their ‘office’. He has a PhD in chemistry; she is a medical physicist but four years ago they surrendered their corporate careers in Perth to purchase West Oz Active Adventure Tours and lead tourists into the twisted mazes of the gorges.